How to Get Nothing and Like It
Sitting on the sea wall in Coronado with my girlfriend and a bunch of my other surfing friends today got me thinking about a challenge—how to get nothing and like it.
I’m a busy person. I don’t always have time to surf. Today, I did. So, I got up early and went to check out the waves. The conditions actually looked pretty good at 6:45 a.m, which meant they’d probably be really good by 9 a.m. But…
When I came back at 8:45, they weren’t. The scene was dominated by huge closeout sets. Yes, there was the odd wind swell rogue shoulder, but really it was a day to just stay dry. And, that, my friends, is sometimes the challenge with surfing…you want to hit it, but it’s just not in the cards. Now, I could let this put me in a bad mood. Or, not. Actually, I think this is one of the things I love about surfing. Like life, it’s not easy. It’s not a formality. You can’t just show up anytime you want and rip it. It requires patience. It requires some knowledge. And, of course, there’s some skill involved. And, sometimes it doesn’t happen. Oh, but when it’s good, it’s PURE JOY.
Check out my other little bites of life here:
